Lancastrian Supporters’ Collar - Pewter Badges of Esses, England 15th century

A rare collar composed of twenty-four openwork pewter badges, each in the form of the letter ‘S’, measuring approximately 1.2 x 1 cm. Each badge is fitted with a rear stud for attachment to leather. The ends are joined by two plain brass rings and a lozenge-shaped hook. While the majority of badges are well-preserved, some exhibit minor losses. The set has been mounted on a modern leather collar for display.

Provenance:
Discovered at Nether Heyford, Northamptonshire in July 1991, approximately 14 inches below ground during trench work. Recorded by John Cherry, British Museum.

The collar of Esses, adopted as a livery badge from the late 14th century, served as a symbol of allegiance or rank. John of Gaunt is documented wearing such a collar in 1389. One interpretation suggests the double ‘S’ commemorates Saint Simplicius, a Roman martyr of 287 AD. The motif was continued by Richard II and the Lancastrian kings Henry IV, V, and VI, who bestowed similar collars on their retainers. (cf. Museum of London A295).