Cartier And Art Deco

A beautiful miniature Art Deco ivory and silver carriage clock of day duration, signed on the white enamel dial Cartier Paris Londres, housed in its original red leather travelling box with original key. The dial with Arabic numerals and pair of diamond studded hands for the hours and minutes and a silvered pointer for the alarm. The movement with cylinder escapement and alarm. The rectangular ivory case bearing the owner’s monogrammed initials ‘FJD’ on an enamel plaque upon the top, with silver bezel, on a stepped base
Paris, date circa 1920-25
Height 8 cm.
Literature: J. Barracca, G. Negretti and F. Nencini, “Le Temps de Cartier”, 1989, pp. 40-41, illustrating three Cartier carriage clocks of 1910 with engine-turned enamel cases.
Ivory clock cases are very rare and generally appear as miniatures since ivory itself is scarce and is limited in size. The legendary firm of Cartier, famed for their innovative and intricate jewellery, clocks and watches often combined unusual and precious materials. From the start Cartier clocks were designed to delight the viewer, whether mystery pieces, fantasy works or simpler table and carriage clocks, they were all made of the finest and most expensive materials. Miniature pieces such as this, as well as table clocks became favorite gifts of the rich. Mottoes were sometimes traced in diamonds while others may have featured the initials of a loved one. King Edward VII was among avid admirers of such pieces.
Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904) founded the firm in Paris 1847. From modest beginnings, within half a decade Cartier had become one of the world’s most celebrated manufactures of fine jewellery and exotic timepieces. Business prospered during the reign of Napoleon III. Princess Mathilde and the Empress Eugénie were one of the first royal patrons and were followed thereafter by royalty of all nations, from Maharajas to Tsars and from self-made millionaires to film stars. In 1874 Alfred Cartier (1841-1925) took over the business from his father and in turn entrusted its international future to his three sons. In 1899 Louis (1875-1942) moved the business to more luxurious premises at rue de la Paix. In 1902 a London branch was opened in New Burlington Street, run by Jacques (1884-1942) in 1906. The following year Pierre (1878-1965) exhibited Cartier for the first time at St. Petersburg and moved to New York, opening a Cartier branch on Fifth Avenue in 1909.
Louis Cartier propelled the firm to ever-greater heights during the early 1900’s. Creative genius, connoisseur and astute businessman, he secured an expert team including Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968), who designed clocks and jewellery as well as the brilliant clockmaker, Maurice Couët (1885-1963). Cartier also collaborated with designers such as Jean Toussaint to create jewellery as an integral part of Haute Couture. As early as 1906 the House introduced abstract and geometric designs, which during the 1920’s Jacqueau developed into some of the finest Art Deco objects of the period.
Although Cartier began selling watches in 1853, clocks were not added to their stock until the early 1900’s. At first Cartier merely retailed other maker’s clocks but then Louis Cartier met Maurice Couët, who according to Cartier’s biographer, Hans Nadelhoffer raised “Cartier’s table clocks to the highest levels of inspired craftsmanship”. From 1911 Coüet worked exclusively for Cartier and in 1919 was installed in their first specific clock workshop. With 30 assorted specialists including enamellers, engravers, engine turners and stone cutters Couët produced a glittering variety of clocks and vanity objects. His team of designers included Alexandre Diringer (b. circa 1893) who had joined the firm in 1910. Couët’s designers were responsible for clocks such as this particular piece while Louis Cartier along with Couët, Georges Rémy and Charles Jacqueau designed the more complex pieces including the renowned Cartier mystery clocks.